Le diagnostiC
What are the characteristics of oily skin?
You have oily skin if it feels rather thick and sticky to the touch. When you run your finger over your skin (mid-day), the finger usually feels shiny and oily. When you look at yourself, your skin often shines, your pores are rather enlarged and blackheads or small pimples frequently appear. You feel your skin is very comfortable, it almost never feels tight. You have no irritation or itching. However, you often have blackheads or pimples.
Our pharmacist's opinion
Oily skin needs to be removed daily and washed with a gentle cleanser that does not irritate the skin. It should be hydrated morning and evening with a low-fat cream. Avoid creams that are too rich or too nourishing. Once a week, it can be exfoliated to remove impurities and dead skin. This time again, choose an effective scrub but not too aggressive to avoid the rebound effect. Prefer so-called “dry” vegetable oils such as jojoba or hazelnut and slightly astringent hydrosols such as lavender or sage. As for clays, opt for green or rhassoul, which are highly absorbent, plus they effectively regulate sebum production without drying out the skin.
The ideal routine for oily skin
THE MORNING
Tone, refresh, tighten pores
I use a toner or hydrosol to purify my skin, refresh my face and tighten my pores. This step is essential to purify and cleanse my skin of excess sebum before applying a serum or cream. The toning lotion is applied using a cotton pad or sprayed directly onto the face. It easily replaces cleaning with water for those who prefer to clean without rinsing.
The eye contour to open the eyes
I apply a hydrating and plumping eye contour serum to open up the eyes. Thanks to its concentration of active ingredients, often higher than a cream or milk, the serum completes the facial treatment. It is always applied before the day cream.
Treat acne (optional)
If necessary, I apply a localized treatment based on essential oils to my spots.
Hydrate, regulate and mattify the face
I apply a light, mattifying day cream that regulates excess sebum . Don't hesitate to choose a day cream with a slight UV index. Indeed, UV rays and the sun dry out the skin. They therefore have, in the short term, a beneficial effect on pimples and enlarged pores, but make no mistake: when you stop exposure to the sun, pimples will reappear with a vengeance. It is therefore better to protect yourself lightly all year round!
THE EVENING
Remove makeup from the skin
I remove my makeup with a two-phase lotion (oil-water) to remove excess makeup. Often, simple cleaning with water is insufficient, impurities persist and spots appear. Deep makeup removal is always essential!
Clean the face
I clean my face with lukewarm water using a mild purifying soap to remove excess sebum. Be careful, do not use a soap that is too aggressive, which will encourage excessive production of sebum and an outbreak of spots subsequently, nor a body shower gel or oil that is too greasy for cleaning the face.
Nourish without greasing the skin
I apply a moisturizing and healing night cream. Do not hesitate to also add healing active ingredients such as Allantoin or fine lavender essential oil if you have acne scars or stubborn spots. Avoid purifying creams at night, prefer a simple, low-fat healing cream.
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ONCE A WEEK
A scrub to refine skin texture
I exfoliate my skin with a gentle exfoliant to rid it of impurities and refine the skin's texture . The scrub is often used before a mask or before a treatment to prepare the skin to receive all the benefits of the active ingredients used more effectively. Massage gently onto damp skin then rinse with clean water.
A purifying mask
I make a purifying clay mask based on green clay or rhassoul. Apply the mask, after exfoliation, to damp skin. Massage lightly to spread the mask evenly. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes. When the mask starts to dry in places, it's a sign that you need to rinse!
DIY recipes for your routine
6 recipes for the beauty routine of oily skin
Toning lotion for oily skin
To purify, cleanse and refresh your skin, nothing likepure sage hydrosol ! Spray it directly on your face or first on a cotton pad or reusable wipe. There is no need to rinse. For an immediate refreshing effect, do not hesitate to put your hydrosol in the refrigerator, it is also ideal for its conservation.
Spot treatment for spots with tea tree
In a 5 ml codigouttes bottle, add 1 ml oftea tree essential oil, 1 ml d'true lavender essential oil, 1 ml d'Java lemongrass essential oil and 2 ml of jojoba vegetable oil. Apply locally to spots morning and evening. Do not rinse.
Mattifying and purifying day cream with propolis
Pour 8 ml ofcry jojoba then add 3 g of cutine. Pour 37 ml of sage hydrosol and 0.15 g of baking soda then mix lightly. Heat 2 pans of water. When the water begins to simmer in the 2 pans, place your 2 bowls in the bain-marie at the same time and let your preparations heat up without mixing or stirring (the water must remain simmering). As soon as the cutina has completely melted in the oil, wait another 1 minute (very important to reach the right temperature) then remove the bowls from the bain-marie. Immediately pour the aqueous phase (i.e. the hydrosol) into the oily phase then beat vigorously with a whisk or fork for at least 5 minutes until a homogeneous and creamy texture is obtained (let cool further 5 minutes). Then add 0.5 ml ofpropolis extract, 10 drops ofisocide and 4 drops of vitamins E. Finally add 1 g ofGreen clay. Beat again to homogenize your preparation. Use in the morning on clean skin.
Healing moisturizing night cream with true lavender
Pour 15 ml of jojoba oil into a first bowl then add 3 g of cutina. Pour 30 ml of sage hydrosol and 0.15 g of baking soda into a second bowl then mix lightly. Heat 2 pans of water. When the water begins to simmer in the 2 pans, place your 2 bowls in the bain-marie at the same time and let your preparations heat up without mixing or stirring (the water must remain simmering). As soon as the cutina has completely melted in the oil, wait another 1 minute (very important to reach the right temperature) then remove the bowls from the bain-marie. Immediately pour the aqueous phase (i.e. the hydrosol) into the oily phase then beat vigorously with a whisk or fork for at least 5 minutes until a homogeneous and creamy texture is obtained (let cool further 5 minutes). Then add 6 drops of true lavender essential oil, 10 drops of isocide and 4 drops of vitamin E. Beat again to thoroughly homogenize your preparation. Use in the evening on clean skin.
Purifying scrub with green clay and olive stone powder
Pour 43 g of green clay and 7 g of olive pit powder. Add 30 ml of sage hydrosol and 5 ml of jojoba oil. Finally add 10 drops of tea tree essential oil. Mix. Then apply to damp face, massage then leave on for 5-10 minutes. When the mask starts to dry in places, it's a sign that you need to rinse!
Gentle soothing and purifying soap with green clay
In a bowl, melt 100 g of organic “Melt & Pour” soap base and 5 g of green clay. Once the soap has liquefied (this step can be a little long), remove the bowl from the heat and add 5 ml of jojoba vegetable oil, 15 drops of true lavender essential oil and 2.5 ml of rice protein. Mix gently to obtain a very homogeneous preparation. Then quickly pour your preparation into a mold because the soap solidifies more quickly with the clay. Let your soap harden for about two hours before unmolding it, then let it dry for 24 hours before using. Use like a classic facial soap. Lather and rinse with clean water.
The essential ingredients
The best ingredients for oily skin:
Tea tree essential oil
Tea tree essential oil is one of the most famous essential oils for its antibacterial, antiviral and antimycotic properties. Broad-spectrum anti-infectious, it purifies oily skin and helps get rid of unsightly spots. Skin repairer, it will help in cases of acne to purify and heal. Slightly astringent, this essential oil tones tissues and helps tighten pores.
How to use it :
- 1 drop in 5 ml (0.6%) of rinse-off product such as scrub, soap or mask
- 1 drop in 10 ml (0.3%) of leave-on product such as cream, serum or makeup remover
Fine lavender essential oil
This essential oil has many properties! Both regenerating, healing and soothing, it is also purifying and anti-infectious. Ideal for oily skin, it gently cleanses the skin and heals scratching lesions. Fine lavender essential oil is potentially allergenic, it is advisable to carry out a test with a drop of pure essential oil in the crook of your elbow 24 hours before using in cosmetics.
How to use it :
- 1 drop in 5 ml (0.6%) of rinse-off product such as scrub, soap or mask
- 1 drop in 10 ml (0.3%) of leave-on product such as cream, serum or makeup remover
Jojoba vegetable oil
Ideal for oily skin, jojoba oil is one of the only vegetable oils, along with hazelnut oil, capable of regulating sebum production. This oil, fluid and dry to the touch, does not leave a greasy film on the skin. Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax whose composition is very close to that of human serum. Not very sensitive to oxidation, it keeps very well.
How to use it :
- Can be used alone, or mixed with other vegetable oils or hydrosols or of course in all your cosmetic formulas.
- There is no maximum dosage, it can be used pure without special precautions.
Sage hydrosol
Purifying and balancing, sage hydrosol also has regenerating and antioxidant properties. Astringent, it tones tissues and tightens pores. It will therefore be ideal, pure as a toner for combination to oily skin. It will also be perfect for anti-aging treatments or, added to a homemade deodorant, to regulate perspiration.
How to use it :
- Use alone as a spray directly on the face or on a cotton pad or reusable cloth
- It serves as a base for your gels and tonic lotions
- It serves as the aqueous phase for your two-phase emulsions or lotions
Olive pit powder
Olive pit powder has an exfoliating power of 7/10. Ideal for the body, it can also be used for the face for combination, oily or problem skin. It will be less powerful than walnut shell powder and more powerful than strawberry or raspberry seeds. Use sparingly, it will delight oily skin to unclog pores, eliminate impurities and dead skin.
How to use it :
- 5 to 15% of the total weight of your cosmetic to add at the end of preparation.
- Used mainly in the formulation of a solid soap, an exfoliating clay paste, or added to your gels, creams or balms.
- Apply to damp skin, massage then rinse!
Green clay
Recognized for its extraordinary absorbent and adsorbent properties, green clay is frequently used in the composition of cosmetics for oily, combination or problem skin. Purifying and balancing, it regulates sebum production without attacking the skin. It also has mattifying properties when added to a clay mask or day cream. Slightly antiseptic, it cleanses problem skin.
How to use it :
- Used mainly in the form of a mask mixed with a hydrosol (add hydrosol until the clay takes on the texture of a wet paste, most often for 50 g of clay, we use 30 ml of hydrosol ) and a vegetable oil (5-10% of the total weight of the preparation, approximately 5 ml for 50 g of clay)
- Clay can also be added to your cleansing treatments (solid or liquid soaps or gels)
- It can finally be added as a mattifying agent in your day creams
Propolis extract
A resinous substance produced by bees, propolis has unparalleled anti-infectious and cleansing properties. It purifies oily and acne-prone skin and heals small wounds and irritations. Ideal in all your cosmetics for damaged, oily or problem skin, propolis extract is also an anti-aging active ingredient thanks to its regenerating properties.
How to use it :
- From 0.5 to 1% in the aqueous phase of your cosmetics (to be added, cold, at the end of preparation): creams, lotions, purifying treatments, tonics, etc.
- Never used pure
- Propolis extract is a hydroalcoholic extract, keep out of reach of young children